Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are reluctant to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
